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Is uncooked healthier?

July 17, 2000 -- Curiosity overpowered hunger as I arrived at Organica restaurant, an unconventional member of San Francisco's eclectic range of cuisine offerings. There's no place for a stove at Organica. Vegan dishes -- containing no meat, fish, eggs, or dairy -- made of raw, organic foods fill the menu, which includes much more than just celery sticks and kidney beans.

I sampled "mashed potatoes," a mixture of walnuts, cauliflower, and spices. "Salmon," a combination of carrots, walnuts, dill, and onion, delighted my palate. Fresh-tasting guacamole, spicy hummus, and a traditional mixed green salad rounded out the meal. A dessert of fresh coconut juice -- which I sipped straight out of a baby coconut -- topped it all off.

The raw foods philosophy, however, was hardly founded in the search for culinary aesthetics. This fledgling but growing movement is drawing Americans looking for overall well-being, purification, longevity, more energy, and a cure for diseases like chronic fatigue syndrome, ulcerative colitis, Crohn's disease, and even cancer. While there is no scientific evidence yet available to back up these claims, devoted raw food fans swear by their diet's powers.

"By the third day of eating all raw, I found I had solved the riddle to my health," says David Klein, who was chronically sick for eight years with an inflamed colon and fatigue. Now he runs Living Nutrition, a raw foods magazine, which he founded four years ago in Sebastopol, Calif.

Heating Away the Goods

Raw food devotees like Klein stick by their own scientific explanation for why they think carrots, or any other food, aren't as good cooked. Their theory is that the body depends on foods' store of enzymes -- the spunky proteins that help break down food to aid in digestion, says Organica's manager Larry Weinstein, a longtime raw food enthusiast. But expose these enzymes to heat and nearly all will be inactivated. The body, he says, then has to pick up the slack and make more of its own enzymes, using energy that it could've used for other things -- like chewing a raw carrot.

"Raw food is living food," Weinstein says. (Organica's owner Juliano -- no last name, as is fashionable these days -- was away when I visited, probably promoting his 1999 "un"-cookbook, Raw.)

However, heat of less than 120 degrees doesn't "kill" the food. So raw-food enthusiasts can use a heat dehydrator, an appliance that blows hot air on food until it "cooks." For example, Weinstein uses heat-dehydrated garbanzo beans to make falafel, among other dishes, at Organica.

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