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Which labels to look for at the fish counter.

Green Choices Seafood Buyer's GuideYou may have decided to buy wild vs. farmed salmon but finding other sustainable seafood isn’t an easy task. At present the USDA has no organic certification program for seafood (an organic seafood label may mean nothing or that the fish was certified "organic" overseas). For sound environmental information, go to the Blue Ocean Institute and Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch websites. At the fish counter, look for the labels listed below.

Sustainable Seafood Advice

Blue Ocean Institute, led by noted marine biologist Carl Safina, has a Guide to Ocean-Friendly Seafood that gives each species of fish a green (good), yellow or red (avoid) rating. For example, green fish are relatively abundant and their fishing or farming methods do little damage to natural habitats and other wildlife; a "red" rank means the species is subject to overfishing or is farmed using methods that harm the environment or wild fish. Search the guide (and download a wallet-size card of it) at blueoceaninstitute.org/seafood—or by entering fishphone.org into your PDA browser.

Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch recommends fish based on current scientific data on environmental and health concerns and direct interactions with fishery and fish-farm operators. Visit the website montereybayaquarium.org or access its guides on your cell phone at seafoodwatch.org.

Marine Stewardship Council

Fisheries and fish farms sporting this label have paid to be certified for the condition of available stocks, the management system and the impact on the environment. Products can be traced directly back to the source.

Eco-benefits: The statistics on global fish stocks are grim: 52 percent of fish stocks are fully exploited, which means that they are being fished at their maximum biological capacity; 24 percent are overexploited, meaning they are depleted or recovering from depletion; and 21 percent are moderately exploited.

Is it regulated? Yes. The agency certification lasts for five years with yearly audits.

Keep in mind: Fish without the label may be equally sustainable but the farms and fisheries from which they came might have chosen not to invest in certification.

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