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Expert Q&A: African-American Hair Care

Myths and mistakes about caring for African-American hair textures.
By
WebMD Feature
Reviewed by Louise Chang, MD

Myths and misunderstandings abound when it comes to caring for African-American hair textures. Top experts gave WebMD crucial info on caring for ethnic hair, whether you wear it straight, braided, loose, or curly.

Here they answer common hair care questions.

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How is African-American hair different from other textures?

One common myth is that there is just one type of African-American hair, says New York stylist Ellin LaVar, who has worked with celebrities including Angela Bassett, Naomi Campbell, Whitney Houston, Iman, Serena and Venus Williams, and Oprah.

"African-American hair isn't just the very kinky, coarse texture," says LaVar, who created the Ellin LeVar Textures hair care line.

Though the texture may vary, there are some similarities that make African-American hair different from other types, says Philadelphia dermatologist Susan Taylor, MD, who also directs the Skin of Color Center at St. Luke's Roosevelt Hospital in New York. In general, the hair contains less water, grows more slowly, and breaks more easily than Caucasian or Asian hair.

Why is it so difficult to style my hair?

Product labeling can often be confusing and may lead African-American women and others with similar hair texture to purchase something that's too heavy or just not appropriate.

"Look for products that describe the texture of your hair, not the color of your skin," LaVar says.

 

 

How often do I really need to shampoo?

The experts interviewed for this story told WebMD that you should shampoo at least every 14 days, but every seven to 10 days is recommended.

"I often have to explain to clients that African-American hair needs to be washed regularly," says West Hollywood stylist Kim Kimble, who has worked with Beyonce, Mary J. Blige, Kerry Washington, and Vanessa Williams.

"Bacteria can grow on the scalp without regular cleansing and that's unhealthy," says Kimble, who has a line of products called Kimble Hair Care Systems.

Many women are worried about stripping the hair of moisture when they wash (in addition to the time-consuming ordeal of styling). LaVar suggests lathering with a moisturizing shampoo designed for normal or dry hair and following with a moisturizing conditioner.

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